Well my robe is in the washer, I have retrieved the escapees, scrubbed down and relined the whelping box, washed off smelly puppies, fed them and taken a shower. This morning was not unusual, however it brought to mind the many times I've heard people comment how "fun" it will be when their female has a litter of puppies. I thought perhaps it would be helpful to hear it from the horses mouth.

It can be rewarding but NOT fun!!! It's messy, time consuming, an inconvenience, expensive and occasionally heart breaking.

As I type I sit across the room from a whelping box of German Shepherd Puppies. One of them has been throwing a tantrum for six minutes solid! He has climbed upon his mother trying to use her as an escape rout out of the whelping box. (My study of puppy behavior has disclosed the true purpose why puppies are so determined to get out of their whelping box; So they can find a new and exciting place to poop!) Another puppy has pooped, on his brother, so I clean up the innocent victim. Just as I sit down I realize they have dumped over their water, so up I go again. They ate just a little while ago and yawns are a promise of peace, as they will soon nod off into a cozy little dog pile.

Since German Shepherds are the breed of dogs I raise, I can only speak through my experience in the breeding, whelping and raising of this particular breed. I am aware that litters of other breeds have unique and individual needs and requirements specific to their breed. However, I think most breeders can relate and hopefully those interested in breeding can benefit from my experience.

Assisting a bitch in whelp is not for the squeamish. My females usually whelp late at night or very early in the morning, never at a convenient hour, but regardless of their determined efforts, always in a whelping box provided for them. Puppies are usually delivered one to two hours apart. It is normal for some to be delivered head first and some tail first. Some puppies are born inside the embryonic sake and some outside (dry birth). Ideally a placenta will follow the birth of each puppy. Having intervened in the breeding of the female I assume responsibility for the birth of healthy puppies. So, I roll up my sleeves and get involved. Keeping the bitch calm I assist her in removing the sack, cutting the umbilical cord, clearing any and all fluid in the mouth and nasal passages of the puppy. I check the pup for any obvious defects, make sure it is breathing normal, check the umbilical area and dry him off. Our puppies are weighed, marked and placed beside mom to nurse within a few minutes.

There is a lot going on when the bitch delivers so be prepared. Know what to expect and what to do about the unexpected.
How much bleeding is normal during delivery?
How long is too long between births?
What will you do if a puppy gets "stuck" during delivery?
What will you do if she cuts the umbilical cord too close?
How will you stop a bleeding umbilical?
How do you get the fluids out of the puppy's nose and mouth?
What will you do if the puppy is choking or if the puppy is not breathing after birth?

Always believing the best, on occasion things can go wrong. The female may have complications during delivery and may have to have a Cesarean Section. The puppies may be born with fatal defects. No matter the how careful you are, they may even contract a virus that at the very least will cost you a veterinarian expense if you are fortunate enough not to loose any of your puppies.

The first two weeks are usually quiet and easy. We check each puppy, weighing and handling every day. But for the most part mom is in charge, feeding and cleaning them. Rarely leaving the puppies, all is cozy and peaceful in their towel lined whelping box. But don't be fooled, it is the calm before the storm.

By the third week eyes and ears are fully functional. Pups are alert and noisy. Having been raised in the home, our litters are accustomed to the sights and sounds of every day life.

At this age the dam faces tooth and nail, puppies appetites increase and the feedings begin with very diluted, puréed and warmed puppy gruel.

By the fourth week the puppies are eating moist puppy food four times a day and nursing occasionally from mom. The dam is no longer adamant about cleaning up after them, except of course after meal times, so we clean whelping box, all day long! We begin vaccinations at four weeks. And it is usually at this time when a campaign is launched for our own newspaper drive, calling upon friends and neighbors to contribute to the cause.

Weather permitting, we feel the best time for the pups to make the transition to an outside puppy pen is not until their fifth week. Their dam continues to play a vital part in the education of her litter, teaching them manners, how to react to visitors, other dogs and all the social graces that go along with canine camaraderie.

At six weeks, they are introduced to our other dogs and some human visitors (after they have sprayed down with a disinfectant and stepped into our bleach water).

Research has shown that at eight to ten weeks the puppy can most easily adapt to his new home. Much time and love has been invested into each pup so it's not exactly exciting to see him or her go. However, much time is spent building relationships with their new owners. Most of our puppy owners have waited a long time to take their puppy home, some even before they were born! They are kept up to date on their development and growth. They are sent literature on the breed, recommended reading, and other information to help new puppy owners. When the pup does go to his home I can feel confident that it is a good home. This too is my responsibility as the breeder.

Hours and hours of time go into each litter. From the breeding of the female to saying 'good-bye' to the last puppy. It is a 7-day a week, on call 24 hours a day, JOB.

The breeder of a litter should offer assistance in choosing the most compatible puppy for each home to achieve the optimum goal: That each puppy remaining in his or her original home for life!

Then after they go to their new homes my responsibility as a breeder does not end. Any person who intentionally (or unintentionally) raises a litter of puppies should take responsibility, remaining available to the owner even if just to offer referrals for services etc. for the puppy's/dog's lifetime. Concerned owners may call at all hours with questions or problems that need to be addressed. These dogs will have an effect on the lives of their owners. If the breeder has taken the time to educate a puppy's potential owner there will be few surprises and both puppy and owner will be happy with one another. If for some unfortunate reason the owners of a puppy are unable to keep him/her the breeder should make every effort to help place the puppy in a more compatible home.

Then there is the issue of genetics. Should the breeder take responsibility for all or any hereditary health problems? This is a matter of personal conviction, but should be taken into consideration before breeding. (As well as a question to ask before purchasing or even adopting a puppy.)

Stud service fee, vaccinations, puppy food, advertisements, long distance phone bills, newspaper, bleach, registration fees and vet bills are just some of the obvious expenses. If all goes well, minimal vet expenses, pups go home at the ideal age of eight weeks, the average litter will cost between $800 and $1,500 dollars. This figure depends of course upon how many puppies there are in the litter.

So there you have it, the true story. I truly enjoy raising our litters. It can be a wonderful time, but NOT "fun". There are lives at stake and this should always be taken into consideration. Breeding is a science, requiring education, time, expense and PASSION! It is not a get-rich-quick scheme. It will NOT make your female a better dog; as a matter of fact your female should be an exemplary specimen of her breed, possessing the genetic makeup worth contributing to yet another generation in order to even qualify her for breeding stock. Always endeavoring to produce puppies that will exceed their parents in structure, temperament and ability, should be the goal of every breeder.

The greatest satisfaction comes a year or so latter when I hear back from our puppy owners that "He just earned his first title!" or "She has been excepted into a service dog program.." or whose lives have been enriched simply by the companionship of their wonderful dog.

In conclusion, and for what it's worth, unless you have an education and a passion for your breed, unless you have dogs worthy of procreation, unless you have the finances, the time, the patience and the people skills, leave the breeding to those who do. Yes, I am doing my best to discourage you from breeding, because it's NOT fun! If you don't believe me visit your nearest animal shelter, take note of the countless purebreds and ask them if they are having fun yet.

Copyright © Judy Guile
Visit Judy at www.aDogForYou.com